This
tutorials uses 3ds max, Texporter, Photoshop and the Total Texture CD 7
I
don't claim to be responsible for thinking of these methods, I simply learnt it
from doing lots of tutorials, practicing and talking to friendly people on forums,
hopefully I can pass something on.
The
Basics
Right,
lets assume you've never applied any mapping to an object in your 3d program.
It all looks quite daunting at first doesn't it? But never fear, its really straightforward
and just requires a bit of patience to get some good results.
We'll
start by jumping in at the deep end and texture the shoulder bolts/covers for
Qwerk. These are really simple objects as only one side is visible and it is flat.
So select the first cover, go to your modifier stack and apply a UVWmap modifier.
We'll use a planar map, which it should default to, and apply it to the Z axis.
You should see a yellow square surrounding the disc. This is the gizmo that we
use to 'map' our textures onto the mesh. A planar map is very simple and only
applies the texture in the selected axis. It will cover the whole object, though
the same image will appear on both sides and the texture merely stretches across
the sides. Not very good looking, but as it is hidden here, it does not matter.
No
need to take my word for it, lets apply a texture so you can see for yourselves.
Open up the material editor, and create a new raytrace material. Name it something
appropriate like shoulder/bolt mat. Now click the grey box that is next to the
diffuse colour, and on the following menu choose 'bitmap'. I used --handle007.jpg--
for this one. Now repeat this step for the reflection slot using the corresponding
bump map, then drag and drop the same map into the specular level and bump slots.
To finish off, click the white box next to the reflect channel until the word
'fresnel' appears, this will make the material reflect more when it is looking
away from the camera. Then adjust your specular level to about 150 and your glossiness
to 40. Now drag and drop this to your object and render a preview to see the mapping
in effect. Very
nice, but the handle in the middle is a bit small at the moment. There are a few
ways to crop our images, but the easiest solution is to simply scale our mapping
gizmo. To help us judge the size we should scale it to, we'll need to click the
checkered cube icon to display the map in the viewport and activate texture correction
in the perspective viewport options. Now, select the gizmo in your modifier stack
by clicking the + sign next to the UVWmap modifier, then selecting gizmo. It should
turn yellow, while the gizmo in the viewport turns blue. Simply treat it as an
object and scale it universally from the center until the image fits the mesh
a bit better. Try another render, then sit back and marvel at your first mapped
object. Easy isn't it?
The
Next Step
Ok,
we've applied a simple map to a simple object and it was pretty straightforward
don't you think? Now we're going to apply multiple materials to the head. As usual
there is a few ways you can go about this, I have used selection sets in this
case because the model allowed it.
Right,
the first step is to define our material id's for the mesh. There will be different
materials applied to the face and the rest of the head, so max has to know which
faces are going to receive each texture. In editable poly, use the face select
mode to select the main polygons that make up the face. Once these are selected,
use the 'grow' tool to literally grow the selection. There were 3 sections for
the seam, so 2 clicks of grow should select enough faces to hide the change in
materials. Now, scroll down to the bottom of your modify panel and under 'polygon
properties' use the 'set id' to change the id to 2. If you use the 'select id'
underneath and set it to 1, all of the other polys that make the head should be
selected. Lets move on.
We
are going to use a planar map for the face portion and a spherical map, with a
different texture, for the rest of the head. A planar map helps because it allows
us to apply detail to the face with little or no stretching, and the spherical
map should also reduce stretching around the sides and back of the model, we can
hide the seam for this behind the face texture, as it won't be visible on those
faces.
Lets
do the spherical one first, make sure you are just in select mode and apply a
UVWmap modifier to the stack. This time we need a spherical map, it should default
to the X axis, which is fine, we just need to adjust it slightly to fit our model.
Click the 'fit' button near the bottom of the modifier panel, this will get a
best fit for the map. Now select the gizmo, notice how one line on the circle
is green? This is where the map will start/stop on our object. Rotate the gizmo
so the green line is facing forward. Now the planar map. Apply another UVWmap
modifier to the head and leave it as planar. We need to tell this to map another
channel, channel 1 is already taken by the spherical map, so lets just use 2.
Lastly, using rotate on the gizmo, align it to best fit the face selection, then
click 'fit' to resize it automatically. That's it, we have now applied two maps
to our head and prepared the model so it knows which material it has.
So
lets make a material for it. Firstly we need a multi/sub-object material, click
the material type near the bottom right of the preview panes and select it from
the following menu. We only need 2 materials, so you can delete any that are extra,
now choose 2 different base colours for these by clicking the grey square to the
right of the material slot, then apply the material to the object. See how the
colours are showing our face selections? The first material slot is colouring
the main part of the head and the second is filling the face. Good stuff, now
we just need to apply our maps. 'But what maps?' I hear you cry. I thought you'd
never ask.
Now
we've gone through all that work to map the head, it would be a shame to just
slap some basic textures on there, so lets make something custom made for our
character. We need a guide to know where to paint our textures so lets use Texporter
to generate a picture of our maps. There are lots of tutorials available for Texporter
so I'll just cover what we need. For our spherical map, the height:width ratio
should be 1:2 to get a map in proportion. It should already be using map channel
1, deselect 'Mark overlaps' and choose to colorize by a 'constant' colour. Use
'Pick object' and click on the face. Texporter will now render an image of our
object as viewed by our mapping gizmo. Looks weird doesn't it? But its cool, this
is what we will use as a guide to paint our texture, you can see the seam on each
edge of the image, there should be half of the face on each side. While we're
using Texporter lets generate an image of our second map. This time check the
dimensions of the map in the modifier panel so we know how to proportion our image
size. Select 'map channel' 2, then select 'only id' and set it to 2. Now pick
the head again. You should get another render, this time as viewed by the planar
map but without the rest of the faces that make the head, just the ones for the
face. You do? Cool, lets move on to the fun part.
Painting
textures is by far the most enjoyable aspect of texturing, but it can also be
a headache when you start with a blank canvas. Fortunately I'm using the Total
Textures CD so I've got loads of inspiration to choose from. Lets do the face
first. I used --hull009.jpg-- as the base for this one. In your paint software,
open the map you made of the face, create a new layer and drag the hull image
into it. Reduce the opacity slightly so you can see your wireframe underneath.
Now start adding detail, really that's the best way I can explain it. Using images
from the CD or anything else at your disposal, add layers over your base using
either 'darken' or 'multiply' for the darker areas and 'screen' or 'Overlay' for
the lighter ones. By building up layers of detail you can create convincing textures.
Try to think where weathering might occur and where dirt will build up, what effect
water would have on the different materials, anything that may happen to the texture
if it was in 'Real' use, but don't try to be accurate.
Here's
a little trick I use all the time to help randomise my textures a bit more. On
the rest of the head, I created a base by using hull images 023 and 024 and tiling
them alternately across the image then collapsing all the layers into one. Now
it looks obviously tiled, but by simply using some grunge maps I can break it
up a little. Create a layer mask for the base colour, now use a grunge map as
the mask, and hey presto, no more obvious tiling. This also gives me another advantage.
If I want to add a slight hint of a base paint under the main red colour, I can
simply duplicate the layer, adjust the colour to something appropriate (an off
white in this case) and then put it below the base colour. By adjusting the brightness/contrast
of the mask, I'm able to show or hide the layer underneath through the holes in
the above layer.
Another
method I use while painting textures is to arrange my layers into groups so I
can quickly duplicate and then alter them to create specularity and bump maps
on the fly. The rest of it is all in your head, if you will. Experiment and play
with settings and colours to add more life to your texture.
That's
It
The
rest of Qwerk was textured using these methods too. The legs and the arms had
more material ids than the face and the body, but otherwise it's the same idea.
By using different methods in different areas you can texture anything, just keep
experimenting and reading and before long you'll find yourself doing it without
thinking.
Mark
Dooney
This image was created using
a few of the hundreds of textures from the Total Texture CDs - very comprehensive
texture collections priced with the hobbyist in mind. To see more examples, download
free samples and read full details follow
this link