Baking Maps and Texturing
When I was done with the UVs, I baked the maps. All the maps were baked at a 2048 x 2048 resolution except those for the gun, which had a 1024 x 1024 resolution map. I used xNormal to bake the normal maps and to bake the occlusion maps I used Topogun. Topogun gave me amazing results on occlusion maps (Fig.11). The Hardware Ambient Occlusion Map option gives a really detailed occlusion that really helped with the texturing part.
Topogun also allows you to bake normal maps, but for that I prefer XNormal as it's given me better results. I used the default values in the High definition meshes and Low definition meshes, and in the Baking options I just changed the size of the maps to 2048 x 2048 and the Anti-alising to 4x (although I don't think it's necessary; I just wanted to make sure I had everything close to maximum quality).
One thing that I really wanted to make look good was the textures. So I gave extra attention to this stage of the process. To make textures for clothes and other inorganic parts I usually start by making a layer of flat colors to define what color each part of the character will have. Then I put the occlusion maps on top of that with the blending mode on Multiply at a low opacity value (somewhere near 25-30%). That gives me a nice starting point on the textures.
After that I start to add some basic textures, like fabrics and metal parts (using photos). With that done I then start to add some color variation using some brushes from Photoshop, with the Burn and Dodge options. To add some dirt effects and give the feeling that clothes have been worn for some time, I create another layer and use photos of metals and concrete (for example), as well as trying different blending modes and opacity values.
To make the textures for the organic parts (head, arms, etc.,) I used Mudbox. I loaded some photos of faces (front, side) and other parts of the body and projected them onto the model (Fig.12). Then I started to paint some parts to make the textures stand out more and to give some unique characteristics to it (like small moles, little scars, etc).
When I finished the textures, I made the specular maps. To make these I just grabbed the textures and made it black and white. Then I adjusted each material (metal, leather, etc.,) to have the correct specular using Levels in Photoshop, while always checking in a real-time engine to see how the specular was working. Here you can see the finished maps of the body (Fig.13).
I chose to present the model in Marmoset Toolbag .This is a great tool to show real-time works and it's very simple to use. It allows you to try many different lights and effects to make your model look the way you want. To present my model I just made a really simple three-point light and used the Overcast Ambience skylight preset as the ambient light (Fig.14). Then I just took some screengrabs of the turntable and made some color corrections and small adjustments in Photoshop to make the final image (Fig.15 – 16).
I had a lot of fun making this character and doing this Making Of. I hope this was of some use to you. If you have any questions about something specific, just send me an email and I'll be happy to answer you! Cheers!