|
| So
now we have these five pieces of a
lily. "What do we do with them?"
you ask. Why, we texture them of course!
Obviously, texturing is one of the
most important aspects of creating
a 3D image so be sure to take your
time in this section. |
| Creating
the Textures |
| 15.
We'll begin with the flower. Load
the 'petal.lwo' into Modeler if it's
not already there, and drag out the
top view so that it encompasses the
whole screen. Zoom in on the object
now using the Fit All command. You
should now be looking at a really
big petal from the top. If you have
screen capture software you can use
it now, otherwise just hit the key
on your keyboard. This copies the
current image on the screen to the
clipboard. |
 |
Figure
17 |
|
| 16.
Here is where we need
Photoshop or any other
image-editing program
that has 'layers'. I'll
be using version 4.0.
Open up Photoshop and
create a new document.
The default size for the
document should be whatever
your screen resolution
is because that is the
size of the image currently
on the clipboard. Hit
'OK'. Now paste the image
from the clipboard into
the document. Using the
crop tool, crop the document
so that the petal fills
the whole image. I find
that using the Guides
to outline the shape of
the box before drawing
the selection makes this
process much easier. See
Figure 17 for a visual
of this step. |
| 17.
Now we can have some fun.
Create a second layer
on top of the wireframe
image. Set the transparency
of the new layer to around
80%. This allows us to
see through the layer
that we're painting on
so that we can use the
wireframe as a guide without
actually painting onto
it. Depending upon your
equipment, you could either
use the Photoshop tools
to create the image map,
or you could actually
scan in a petal of some
sort and apply that to
the image. It's up to
you. I opted to paint
my lily by hand with an
orange hue. Create the
petal texture and then
save it as a PSD file.
Do not flatten it. Note
that the Amiga IFF image
loader/saver can be found
in the Goodies\Plugins
directory of the Photoshop
4.0 CD-ROM. Just copy
the file 'aiff8b.8bi'
into your Photoshop\Plugins\Formats
directory on your hard
drive. |
|
|
 |
Figure
18: Petal pasted into
layered document |
 |
Figure
19: The final petal
texture |
|
| 18a.
Now, go back into Modeler,
load up the 'flower.lwo'
object, zoom in on it,
take a screen shot, and
paste it into a new Photoshop
document. Crop it around
the flower just like we
did with the petal. Now,
open the petal document
and select the second
layer that contains the
petal image and copy it.
Paste it into the new
document on top of the
wireframe flower. You
can see in Figure 18 that
only the petal was pasted,
not the background wireframe
of the petal. That's why
we didn't flatten the
image earlier. |
| 18b.
The rest is simple. Just
resize the new layer so
that it fits one of the
petals and line it up.
Clone the layer four more
times and use the Transform
Layer tools to align each
of the five layers with
the petals. Make sure
that all the layers are
now set to 100% opacity
and merge the petal layers
together. The easiest
way to do this is to link
them together via the
Layers window and then
choose 'Merge Linked'.
At this point, you might
have to do some cloning
and touching up here and
there to get it just right.
Copy the flower layer
and paste it into a new,
clean white document,
flatten it, and save it
as an IFF file. Phew…you'll
be happy to know that
the hardest part is behind
us. Figure 19. |
| 19.
OK, now repeat steps 15-17
for the leaf, except this
time at the end of step
17, copy the layer with
the leaf texture on it
and paste it into a new
document, flatten it,
and save it. Figure 20
shows you what I came
up with. |
|
 |
Figure
20 |
|
|
 |
Figure
21: Bud texture |
|
| 20.
Now for the bud. This
is a little trickier to
do only because we're
creating a cylindrical
map rather than a planar
map. The first two steps
are the same as for the
two planar maps that we
just created. Get a screen
capture of the bud in
the face view and crop
the document to fit it.
Be sure that you crop
the image around only
the bud, not the stem.
Here is where it changes.
Paint the side of the
bud just as you would
paint the leaf or the
petal. Once you're finished,
copy it to the clipboard
and click on 'New' to
open up a new document.
Once again, the default
size of the document should
automatically be whatever
the size of the image
on the clipboard is. Leave
the height the way it
is, but double the width.
Create the new document
and paste the image into
it. Align the image with
one side of the document.
You can see that because
we doubled the width,
there is room for another
copy of the image. Duplicate
the layer or simply paste
the image into the document
again and flip this new
layer horizontally and
line it up with the other
side of the document.
What you should end up
with is two identical
images mirrored next to
one another (Figure 21).
Now flatten the image
and if there is a visible
seam in the middle where
the two layers were connected,
paint it out with the
clone tool. We should
now have three textures:
the petal texture, the
leaf texture, and the
bud texture. We'll be
able to use these for
the color textures as
well as the bump maps.
Well, we're finally ready
put it all together in
Layout, so let's go! |
|
|
| Once
you have Layout open, load in the
six parts of the flower. Don't worry
if they are overlapping on another.
That will be changed when we position
them later on. |
-'petal.lwo'
-'leaf.lwo'
-'bud.lwo'
-'stembig.lwo'
-'stemsmall.lwo' |
| 21.
Now load in the three image maps
that we just created. We'll texture
the petal first. Apply the petal's
image map to the 'Petal_P_Y' surface
as a planar map on the 'Y' axis,
just as the surface name indicates.
Choose 'Automatic Sizing' and turn
off 'Texture Anti-aliasing'. Apply
the same image as a planar bump
map on the 'Y' axis with the same
options. Give the bump map an amplitude
of about 100%. As far as the rest
of the settings go, I chose what
I thought looked best, however you
can certainly adjust the surface
attributes to your liking. Although
these settings are somewhat optional,
keep in mind the fact that most
plants and even petals have some
sort of specularity to their surface,
which you should be sure to include
on your flowers. |
Luminosity
= 0.0%
Diffuse Level = 80%
Specular Level = 15%
Color Highlights = Checked
Glossiness = Medium
Reflectivity = 0%
Transparency = 0%
|
| 22.
We'll do the same for the leaf. Apply
its texture maps in the same manner.
The only settings that I changed are
the other surfacing attributes. |
Luminosity
= 0.0%
Diffuse Level = 90%
Specular Level = 15%
Color Highlights = UnChecked
Glossiness = Medium
Reflectivity = 0%
Transparency = 0% |
| 23.
For the bud, just apply its image
map as a cylindrical map on the 'Y'
axis. Select 'Auto-sizing', turn off
texture anti-aliasing, and if you
like, apply it as a bump map as well.
The rest of the surface settings for
the bud are identical to those of
the petal. |
| 24.
The three stem surfaces ('Budstem_Cyl_Y',
'Stembig_Cyl_Y', and 'Stemsmall_Cyl_Y')
can all be surfaced with the leaf
color texture. Simply apply it as
a cylindrical map along the 'Y' axis.
You can also use the leaf's surfacing
attributes for the stems. Easy, eh? |
| 25.
OK, last but certainly not least is
the stamen. The 'stamen' surface was
easy… |
Surface
Color = 240,150,40
Luminosity = 0.0%
Diffuse Level = 90%
Specular Level = 25%
Color Highlights = Checked
Glossiness = Medium
Reflectivity = 0%
Transparency = 0% |
| …and
the 'pollenbud' surface wasn't much
harder. |
Surface
Color = 70,55,30
Luminosity = 0.0%
Diffuse Level = 70%
Specular Level = 10%
Color Highlights = Un-Checked
Glossiness = Medium
Reflectivity = 0%
Transparency = 0% |
| Well,
that's about it for the texturing.
The last step in the whole process
is simply to assemble the lily and
set up some lights. |
| |
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